Aaron K limitedslip.net


It runs!

Before anything else was to be done, I wanted to get it back up and running again, since it did when it was last shutoff (supposedly). I'm unclear on when it last ran, but based on the last emissions test and the expired plates, at least 5-6 years ago.

First, pumped out all the old gas, found some rust on the siphon tubes. Drained the oil, looked decent. Haven't changed the oil filter yet, don't have a large enough oil filter wrench. I'm thinking I'll probably run the oil that is in it for a bit, then change it again and do the filter then. Ditto with the gas, try to get the tank mixed up and siphon it out again. Basically use this round of oil and gas to clean the engine out over a short period.

Went to hook the battery back up, and there were sparks. Not usually a good sign. Nothing would come on or show any signs of life, including any check lights. After more closely looking around the battery, and took a closer look at why one of the terminals was only wedged on half way. The other was completely disconnected when I got it, presumably to save the battery. Turns out whoever last touched the car jammed the negative hookup onto the positive terminal. So here I was applying reverse voltage. I had to pry the negative back off the positive terminal, I think it was hammered on. Earlier poking around I discovered the power steering pump belt was on the wrong crank pulley, so that belt is misaligned too.

So, with the battery hooked up, the dash lit back up. At this point, I've figured I've toasted the ECU and who knows what else. I ran through the usual checks, fuses, main relay, injector power, thoroughly cleaning all ground and positive connections, etc, but every time you turn the key to start, nothing. Doesn't crank, no signs of life. The car had been leaking quite a bit around the windshield area, so I pulled the ECU because it happens to sit directly under the corner of the leaking windshield. Turns out some water or something got inside and it was looking pretty ugly:

P1020045 P1020050


Turns out this ECU has been chipped by AutoThority a while back.

I shorted the appropriate connectors in the diagnostics plug to force the starter to run (11 and 14 I believe), and it turned over! Took 4-5 tries to get it running and idling, but it finally settled in. Even backed out of the garage on its own accord. Guess all that crap in the ECU doesn't hurt for now. I'm not too concerned, since the current plan likely involves a standalone engine management system when the turbo comes.

So something is wrong on the dash side somewhere. I'm not sure I'll be ok with having to start it under the hood each time. At least it runs and I've only spent money on oil, a filter, fluid pump and some gas (so far...).


Filed under: BMW 633 CSi No Comments

ignition switch faulty

The not starting this was traced back to the ignition switch itself:


Nothing like a glass of pinot with a 30 year old worn out bmw electrical switch. Too bad these parts don't get better with age. This one is definitely on its last legs, there is also a crack in the outside, and the keyed slot is fairly worn down:


The switch worked except for the start position. Accessory and on would work and tested ok, but if you push it forward, nothing. And the start position was pretty vague too, not the spring loaded feel you'd expect. I looked around online, and this part is $100-$120 new (part # 61321372931). That seems a bit excessive, so I tried to take it apart. Well, parts went everywhere. For those that do this and want to get all the pieces back inside correctly, here is what it should look like:


After cleaning it up, removing the old dielectric grease and putting it back together, it seems to test OK now. The start feel is still off, however. Well, if this fails, I'm going to slap a new start switch somewhere, unless I happen to run across a better switch for less than the new price.




Filed under: BMW 633 CSi No Comments